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Alternative Sanitizers
First before you start, you should be aware that there Alternate Sanitizer
refers to the fact that these alternatives are different from the normal
chemical program of chlorine and bromine. There is no complete alternative or
non-chemical method to maintaining a pool or spa that we know of. In other words
no matter what system you use there will still be some maintenance required on
your part. You will always need to manually and physically clean filters and in
almost all cases balance the water with pH, alkalinity, calcium etc... There is
as far as I know no way around this unless you can find an automated system that
tests and adds these products for you. You may still be required to use or
maintain oxidizers or sanitizer residuals to some degree, you may even be
required to use clarifiers, sequestriants or chelates. to help remove solids or
dissolved solids and minerals. So in short keep this in mind when deciding on an
alternative, as for the most part they are very beneficial and can save you
a lot of time and money as well as improve water quality. Also look at
the whole chemical program set forth by a dealer or manufacturer and evaluate
this as well. If something doesn't seem right about the program or it is just
way to simple then question it chances are the dealer is not disclosing all the
information you need to make a proper decision. If you are still unsure then
drop me a line with specifics about your uncertainties and I will see if I can
answer your questions.
Alternative Sanitizers
- Chlorine Generators
- Brine System Generators
- In Line Generators
- Chlorine Generators in General
- Ionizers
- Ozonators
- Germicidal UV Sterilization (Jac-Pac)
- PristineBlue®
- Baquacil and BaquaSpa
- Enzymes
- Magnet Water Conditioners
Call for pricing
There are two main types of chlorine generators, and each produces chlorine from
a mixture of salt and water. For nearly 200 years chlorine has been produced
through a method known as electrolysis. In this method, electricity is passed
through a solution of salt and water, and its chemical components are made to
separate from the solution. One of the chemicals produced is chlorine gas.
Almost 90% of the chlorine used today is made this way. When direct current is
passed through a salt solution (also known as brine) three things are produced:
At the positive electrode chlorine gas is produced, at the negative electrode
hydrogen and caustic soda are produced.
Chemically here is how it works. salt is a compound known as "Sodium
chloride" (chemical formula NaCl). Water is a compound that could also be
called "Hydrogen oxide" (chemical formula H2O). In the
presence of electricity, this is what happens:
Salt + Water (converts to =) Chlorine + Caustic Soda + Hydrogen
Chemically this is what happens:
2NaCl + H2O = CL2 + 2NaOH + H2
The first method is called "The Brine System", this procedure is the
same as commercial chlorine plants but the generator is of much smaller scale
for pools or spas. In this system a brine solution is contained in a two chamber
holding tank, separated by a porous diaphragm or membrane. The positive
electrode is hooked up in one chamber and the negative to another. The diaphragm
allows electricity and sodium ions to pass through but doesn't allow the
chloride ions or water to pass. This keeps the chemicals produced at each
electrode from coming into contact with each other. The chlorine gas that
bubbles to the top of the chamber is drawn off and introduced to the pool or spa
water. Once in the water the chlorine produces hypochlorous acid (HOCl) - the
killing form of chlorine and hydrochloric acid (HCl). The small amount of
hydrochloric acid produced will not drastically affect water balance. However,
pH and Alkalinity should be checked regularly. The sodium hydroxide (caustic
soda) and hydrogen gas are often vented of into the air or in some systems tap
off a small portion of the caustic soda from the cathode chamber and mix it with
the chlorine gas before it enters the pool. This helps neutralize the acidic
effects of the chlorine gas. In all "brine systems" the anode chamber
must periodically be refilled with water and salt, and the cathode chamber must
be periodically drained of caustic soda and refilled with fresh water. Some
systems require distilled water to be used. Some systems use a sophisticated
electronic indicator system that advises the user that maintenance is required
while others rely on mechanical alarms.
During the summer season the cathode chamber needs to be drained off about
every 4-6 weeks. Some models require that you drain the chamber to a jug. Others
allow you to hook up a hose flushing system for disposal. The caustic soda
solution can be used for pH adjustments in the pool or spa or for other
household uses such as cleaning drains or it can simply be disposed of. A
typical brine chlorine generator designed for a 25,000-30,000 gallon pool uses
40-50 pounds of salt in the anode chamber. This must be replenished 2-4 times
per year. Estimated salt consumption is about 80-200 pounds of salt per year.
Call for pricing.
The In-line chlorine generator system is the second of the two systems. This
generator produces chlorine directly in to the pool or spa from a low
concentration of salt added to the pool water. Electrolysis takes place in an
electrolytic cell installed "in-line" in the recirculation system.
Thus the name. Inside the cell are layers of plates that are electrically
charged, provided by a separate power supply. Depending on the manufacturer you
need to maintain a salt concentration of about 2500-6000 parts per million in
the pool or spa for the unit to operate effectively. This means adding 200-500
pound of salt per 10,000 gallons of water.
To someone who is used to adding chemicals a gallon or pound at a time this may
seem like quite a bit, but manufacturers state that the salt concentration of
the human body is around 4000 ppm, so this concentration nearly duplicates that
of the swimmers who will be using the pool or spa.
As the salt water passes through the cell it is super chlorinated, which
prevents the build up of chloramines and because the caustic soda is produced at
the same time and is not removed or separated, it neutralizes the acidic
condition produced from the chlorine gases, this means the pH of the water is
not affected. To prevent scale build up on the plates the control unit may
periodically reverse the charge on the plates to repel any build up that the
opposite charge attracted.
Once the chlorine generated from the water does its job, it reverts back to
salt and water to be used over and over again. So it is only necessary to add
more salt to replace loss due to bather drag off, splash out, over flow and
filter backwash.
A not of interest, chlorine generators could just as easily be bromine
generator. If you use sodium bromide residual (NaBr) instead of sodium chloride
(NaCl). Chlorine generator also lend themselves very well to automation. Several
generator models offer ORP sensors with automatic controllers that control the
amount of chlorine produced, as either optional or standard equipment. So when
the sensor senses a demand for chlorine, the control unit produces chlorine in
proportion.
There are four costs to a chlorine generator; the cost of the unit itself, the
cost of installing, the cost of the salt, the cost of electricity. Chlorine
generators themselves run between $1000-3500 and with ORP and pH sensors and
controls for complete automation you could be looking at $6000 or more. Keeping
in mind that you are going to save 90% of your original chlorine costs when all
is said and done.
Installation can be as simple as cutting the return line and hooking in the
unit, hanging the power supply and plugging the unit in, or it can be a major
plumbing job.
The cost of salt is extremely cheap and will not cost more than $100-200 for
the initial salt dosage and on a brine system shouldn't be more than $25- 50 per
year of salt used (based on the Canadian market prices) Bulk purchases are
almost always advantageous.
Electrical consumption runs about 100-200 watts per hour while in use that is
pennies per day. There is one other cost worth mentioning and that is
replacement cells or electrode plates. Before the 70 there wasn't any permanent
electrodes available, in other words commercial chlorine plant constantly
replenish and reclaim the metallic minerals used as electrodes. This is very
costly, inconvenient and impractical for miniature home generators. It was not
until new metal alloys were developed in the 70's from space research that made
small home generators practical. These new alloys could stand the demands of
chlorine generation without constantly being replaced. Although some
manufacturers keep the metal alloy they use a secret, one manufacturer uses a
titanium electrode, plated with platinum or iridium. If they had used stainless
steal instead, the electrode might last a day. A titanium alloy electrode is
expected to last 3-5 years. So there is that cost to factor in.
One final word of warning. Total dissolved solids (TDS) in water create a
corrosive situation even when the pH is in its ideal range. Ideally you would
like to keep a normal pool or spas TDS level below 1500-2000 ppm however because
salt drastically increases the TDS of water, you will need to re-think the TDS
factor completely. Because you are adding 4000 ppm of salt to the pool on an
in-line system, it is recommended that you partially or completely drain the
water out of a pool or spa when the TDS level reaches 1500 ppm above the salt
water level recommended by the chlorine generator manufacturer and maintain the
pH as suggested by the manufacturer.
Manufacturer and marketers of ionization systems have over the past 30 years,
created a lot of skepticism about their products by overselling the benefits of
the units and making claims that ionizers have been incapable of delivering.
As the name implies, ionizers work by causing metallic ions to be present in the
water. An ion is an atom or group of atoms, that possess an electrical charge.
An ion gets its electrical charge by losing or gaining electrons. If it has an
extra electron then it is a negative ion, also called an anion. If it has lost
an electron it is a positive ion or a cation.
The process that causes an element to gain or lose electrons is called
ionization. This can be as simple a process as dissolving table salt in water or
as complex as bombarding an atom with electrons in an atom smasher. It can also
be accomplished by passing an electric current between two electrodes, which is
how it is done in the devices that are sold for water sanitation. It is well
known, that copper ions in water, inhibit algae growth. So when you add copper
sulfite or a copper based algaecide, you are actually making copper ions. There
is also a fair body of research to indicate that silver ions in water kill
bacteria. Many ionization manufacturers are quick to point out that a silver
based ionizer was used to purify water on the Apollo spacecraft.
Ionizers work by passing a low DC voltage through a set of metallic
electrodes, placed in line with the circulation system and set slightly apart
from each other. As the voltage causes some of the outermost atoms of the
electrodes to lose electrons, which attempt to flow across the space between the
electrodes but instead are carried away by the flow of water. Some systems use a
copper and a silver electrode, other systems use two copper electrodes, which
produces copper ions only. And still others use a pair of bi-metallic electrodes
which produce both copper and silver ions.
I already mentioned that copper can be an effective algaecide and that silver
can be an effective bactericide. But at what level are they effective? Do you
really need both copper and silver? How do you control organic contaminants? How
do you avoid staining? And what else is needed? So lets look at a copper/silver
system and an all copper system one at a time.
Copper / Silver Ionizer Systems
Manufacturers of copper/silver systems recommend the use of a copper test kit to
indicate ion test levels in the water. Because both copper and silver ions are
being dispersed at the same time they say that it is only necessary to check for
the presence of one to know the other. Copper test is performed much as you
would test for chlorine residual. Manufacturers of copper/silver units recommend
a level of copper in the range of .15 through .20 parts per million, a pH of 7.2
through 7.4 and a total alkalinity of 80 through 100 parts per million. Be
aware however that not all manufacturers agree on the ideal ranges of both
copper levels or pH levels. I have heard of manufacturers suggesting a pH levels
as low as 6.8 through 7.2 and copper levels as high as 1 ppm. The ion level
is adjusted by changing the current flow across the electrodes using a manual
dial on the control unit. pH and total alkalinity are adjusted by traditional
methods. Manufacturers also recommend weekly additions of an oxidizer. Usually
potassium peroxymonosulphate to get rid of organic contaminants and to remove
the slimy protective bio shield that forms over algae but chlorine can also be
used and is recommended in my personal opinion. The dosage rate is one pound per
10,000 gallons for a permonosulfate compound (non-chlorine shock). You may also
use liquid chlorine at the rate of one pint per 10,000 gallons added in the
evening so it has gone by morning. You could use another type of chlorine but we
should point out that the cyanuric acid contained in stabilized chlorine
compounds may be precipitated by silver ions. If copper stains develop a
chelating/sequestriant agent is recommended or can be used as a preventative.
Contact the manufacturer for suggestions here.
All Copper Systems
A copper test kit is also used to monitor ion levels with all copper systems.
Manufacturers of such systems say that at their recommended levels, copper alone
can control both bacteria and algae. And all copper systems, they say, eliminate
problems of silver ions reacting with sunlight to form a black precipitate on
pool walls and equipment. Because the system relies on copper only for bacteria
and algae control manufacturers recommend a higher copper level with this
system. Slightly less than .30 parts per million in the off season and .30 - .50
parts per million during periods of heavy use, maintaining a pH of 7.2 through
7.4 and total alkalinity of 80 - 120 parts per million. EM>Be aware however
that not all manufacturers agree on the ideal ranges of both copper levels or pH
levels. I have heard of manufacturers suggesting a pH levels as low as 6.8
through 7.2 and copper levels as high as 1 ppm. Except when the system is first
installed no oxidizer is recommended but may prove necessary. After the system
is operating the only regular chemical treatment is a non-polymer flocculating
agent added once a month at a rate of 8 oz. per 10,000 gallons (16 oz. if water
clouds). A chelating agent is used to reduce the level of metals in the water
and prevent staining. According to one manufacturer oxidation of organics is
accomplished in the ion chamber where in addition to producing ions the
electrodes also electrolyze some water separating it into two elements hydrogen
and oxygen. Whether the amount of oxygen produced in the chamber is sufficient
to take care of all organic waste is open to some question and is highly
unlikely. Most manufacturers of ionizers, recommend a chlorine residual be
maintained at 1-2 ppm and regular shock treatments with chlorine or a
non-chlorine shock. As for algae's bio-shield, the manufacturer recommends
brushing to remove it then the ionizer should be able to take over from there..
Ionizer Maintenance
The residual provided by an ionizer comes from a gradual erosion of the
electrodes. This is true for copper/silver, bi- metallic and all copper systems.
Depending on the type, electrode life is estimated at one to two years. Scale
build up on the electrodes is another question that draws different responses
from ionizer manufacturers. One says that high calcium levels will result in
scale forming on the electrodes and that applying a mild acid solution and
hosing it off will remove the scale. Another says that ionization inhibits scale
formation both on the electrodes and the pool wall and equipment. In fact it is
useful in removing scale that has formed prior to the installation of an
ionizer.
If properly maintained and sensibly applied an ionizer system seems capable of
satisfying basic sanitation needs. Unfortunately too many systems have been
marketed in the past by firms that ignore the total needs of the pool and spa
water. By itself an ionizer is able to deal with algae and bacteria but problems
with water balance, disposal of organics and proper filtration are not things
that an ionizer can handle by itself. Manufacturers are careful to stress the
importance of proper filtration and filter maintenance. They recognize the need
to deal with oxidizing organics but differ in their approach to the problem. If
you're seriously looking into an ionizer system our advice is to evaluate not
only the unit itself but the entire program put forth by the manufacturer.
Ionizer are priced similar to chlorine generators, average units run
$1000-3000.
Call for pricing
Ozone is a gas, a modified highly reactive form of oxygen (chemical formula O3)
that is one of the strongest oxidizers and disinfectant available. It is
stronger than chlorine, bromine, hydrogen peroxide and hypochlorous acid. In
fact, against a bacterium called E.Coli (commonly used to measure the
effectiveness of sanitizers), ozone kills 25 times more powerful than
hypochlorous acid and about 500 times faster.
Ozone was discovered and isolated in 1840 by C.F. Schonbien who noticed a
unique odor during electrical sparking and electrolysis experiments. He also
realized the odor was the same after a lightning flash. He named the substance
ozone from the Greek word ozien which means to smell. In 1893 the first drinking
water treatment plant to employ ozone was built in Oudshoorn, the Netherlands.
By 1977, there were 1039 ozone drinking water treatment plants in Europe. Today there are more than 2000 such plants. There are two main methods of producing
ozone. In a corona discharge method, air is passed through an electrically
charged chamber, where a miniature “lightning storm” produces ozone from
oxygen. In the UV method, air is passed close to one or more Ultraviolet lamps,
which bombard the oxygen molecules with UV rays to produce ozone.
Corona Discharge is the older of the two methods used to produce ozone, and
produces a much higher concentration of ozone gases, especially when paired up
with a compressor and air drier, then UV systems. Also without an air filter and
dryer moist air in a corona discharge generator is formed into nitric acid from
the nitrogen in the air, the air filter reduces buildup on the discharge plates
reducing the frequency the plates need to be cleaned of scaling. The equipment
cost is often impractical for use with a spa or small pool. The single lamp UV
system is much more cost efficient and will produce sufficient ozone for a spa
or small pool but the lamp that produces a specific wavelength (180-190
nanometers) to produce ozone deteriorates in wavelength and subsequently the
ozone produced also diminishes with age. After about two or three years the
amount of ozone produced is not sufficient enough to be effective, then the bulb
or entire generator should be replaced.
Ozone is measured in parts per billion (units that are 1000 times smaller
than parts per million) up to about 1 ppm or it may be measured in milli grams
of output. If you use an ozone generator in combination with chlorine or bromine
, you merely need less chlorine or bromine. Test for the chlorine or bromine
residual as you normally would. You will find that it takes a lot less chlorine
or bromine to maintain that residual, because much of the sanitizing chore is
being carried out by the ozone. Also a pool or spa requires a lower residual of
chlorine or bromine to maintain adequate sterilization. For a pool about .5 ppm
is sufficient and a spa only requires 1ppm. Stand alone, ozone cannot oxidize
such compounds as ammonia, urea or amino acids (all common bather wastes).
However it can oxidize these simple compounds once chlorine or bromine has
combined with them. Also ozone only stays in pool or spa water for about 18
minutes under ideal conditions of pH, temperature, contaminates etc.... however,
it usually only lasts about 20 second through to 4 minutes in most spas and
pools.
Ozone generator starting price is the least expensive of the alternative
automated systems. They Range anywhere as low as $100 up to more than $1000 ,
and even more if dryers, compressors and mixing tanks are involved. (U.v.
$100-600 and C.d. $300-1000.)
There are some important differences to how well an ozonator will work in
regards to installation. You can have an expensive CD unit that produces a lot
of ozone but it will be no more effective than a UV system may produce 100 times
less ozone if installed poorly. It is very important to mix the ozone with the
water well. If you are simply injecting ozone into the water and allowing it to
float to the surface, then you will not get the most out of your ozone
generator. Instead you will be causing a lot of excess gases to rise to the
surface damaging or destroying near by equipment, covers or vinyl. If you can
smell the ozone gases it is not mixing with the water as good as it should or
could. Installing a proper ozone mixing tank, which forces the ozone gases to
continually mix with the water for 2-6 minutes before allowing the ozonated
water to mix with the main body of water in the pool or spa is ideal. Mixing
tanks also usually allows for the excess gases to escape safely through a relief
valve then through an ozone destruction chamber so they can cause no harm. Unfortunately this can be quite expensive installation but well worth
considering
($500-15000). This method is the method recommended by health officials to keep
the excess gases to a minimum and a must on commercial installations in most
jurisdictions. Ozone gas is very unhealthy, and is a carcinogen. The EPA has
established a limit for exposure to ozone at 0.1 ppm or 100 parts per billion
per cubic yard of air for and 8 hour period. Ozone can be detected by smell at
levels 10 times less than that. Some installation I come across inject the ozone
gas into the plumbing somewhere in line. This at least allows the gases to mix
with the water during the time it takes to travel the length of the pipe, plus
the time it takes to float to the surface. (A mixing tank, as mentioned earlier
increases this time.) Even more installations, especially on spas and hot tub,
inject the ozone at the point just before the water leaves the jets or return,
near the bottom of the tub. This is not ideal but still better than hooking an
ozone generator to the air controls of a spa. When hooked up to the air control
the ozone usually comes out the jet closest to the surface of the water, as this
is the easiest path for the gas to travel. In this type of installation you may
as well invest in a spa cover manufacturer or unhook the ozone tube from the air
controls and suck on it. The concentration of ozone at this point is very unsafe
and is doing very little for the water quality. On a rare occasion I have seen
ozone installed on the suction side of a pump in the water line. As the pump is
drawing water into it, it also draws in some ozone gases. Don't allow anyone to
install ozone in this way, and if it already is installed like that have someone
come out and change it. This is the next best way to destroy your equipment and
corrode your heater aside from putting a bunch of chlorine tablets in a skimmer
and lowering your pH to 3 !!!
If you are pricing ozone it is highly recommended the whole installation be a
factored into the final decision. Anybody can sell you a cheap ozone generator
and do a hokey installation. A reputable company should be able to explain the
differences and advise you accordingly.
When ozone is first introduced into the water and during the first 72 hours
or so, your water may get cloudy. Ozone will begin to oxidize all of those
particles and metals that your present sanitizer would otherwise leave in the
water. When these particles are oxidized, they form visible particles that are
heavier than water and precipitate out. Also some of the dirt and debris in the
water is to small to be trapped by the filter. These small-sized particles have
a weak electrical charge or pole. The charge is a negative charge and they repel
each other like two magnets. They are so small they are not affected by gravity
and won't settle out. Ozone neutralizes these charges allowing the particles to
combine into large enough particles to be trapped by the filter. Once the oxygen
has do its job it reverts back to oxygen which will make the water look, feel
and even taste better.
There is a lot more to say about ozone but at this point if you have further
questions you will need to e-mail me, or check the FAQ menu listing before
e-mailing to see if your question has already been answered.
Starting @ $129 + Install & taxes
For out of town orders, replacement parts or inquiries, please
contact the manufacturer directly. Peter @ JacPac UV
604-780-4702
The Jac-Pac is not an ozonator as assumed by many dealers and customers.
Although it does use some common technology like an Ultraviolet lamp, but that
is where the similarity ends.
When the JAC PAC is plumbed and wired properly into the spa system, the spa
water circulates through the JAC PAC’s reaction chamber, which houses a custom
manufactured, germicidal, high intensity ultraviolet lamp. When bacteria or
pathogens pass through the JAC-PAC’s reaction chamber, they are exposed to the
high intensity ultraviolet rays which are being emitted in the germicidal wave
length frequency range of 253.7 nanometers. This level of exposure disrupts the
D.N.A. bonding and stops the bacteria from breeding and consequently the
organisms die (bacteria that can't reproduce are considered dead). The JAC-PAC
is extremely effective in killing micro-organisms such as viruses, bacteria and
mold spores without altering or affecting the spa water. The unique design of
the JAC-PAC flow chamber assures the highest kill rate. Some bacteria or viruses
that are clinging to the walls of the spa, in the pipes or filter may not go
through the JAC-PAC so it is recommended that you sanitize, disinfect and
oxidize 1-3 times per week with 4-5 ppm of unstabilized chlorine (depending on
bather load). This will eliminate any intruders that have not passed through the
JAC-PAC and remove them from the surfaces. Don’t worry though, the JAC- PAC
accelerates chlorine and burns it off in 4 to 8 hours (unlike an ozonator) so
the next time you use the spa the water is pure and chemical free. The best
quality of water to soak and relax in.
Use unstabilized granular or liquid chlorine (bleach) manually to achieve this
range of 3-5 ppm. Once you know how much you need for your application you
don’t need to test your chlorine again other than to periodically confirm that
you put enough chlorine in. Do Not Attempt to use a floating
dispenser in conjunction with a JAC-PAC as the chlorine or bromine will never
reach a high enough residual to be effective in killing bacteria on the walls
and plumbing. The JAC-PAC will just burn off these chemicals as
fast as they dissolve. Before you know it your Total Dissolved Solids (TDS’s)
will build up to an unrecommended range causing other problems. An ozonator is
recommended to operate with a constant residual of chlorine or bromine to
maintain effective sterilizing and oxidizing, whereas the JAC-PAC cannot as it
burns off harmful chemicals quickly, allowing you to enjoy chemical free water.
As you are putting much less chemicals in less frequently you will only change
your spa water every 4-6 months instead of every 2-3 months. Don’t forget all
systems chemical free or not, require proper pH levels and clean filters. I
would point out that this system is a bacteria sterilizer and is not a primary
disinfectant. The Jac Pac should not be used in commercial and non residential
pools or spas where it is necessary to maintain a residual of chlorine in order
to meet the requirements as a disinfectant by the health board. However this
product is perfect for residential pools and spas where it is the immediate
family that typically uses the spa and does not get the traffic that a
commercial application gets. You should determine for yourself if there products
are suitable for your objectives.
Jac-Pac is a specific product name and is not a general term like ionizer or
ozonator. The Jac-Pac sells for about $500 and will give you the least toxic
water you can get and get you the closest to chemical free water you can get
that I know of.
Because this product is so unique and new to the market I have included the
this product in my products pages. I have personal experience with this product and give it my
complete approval. Click here for the Jac-Pac specific
pages.
Jac-Pac's Inquiries
For out of
town orders, replacement parts or inquiries, please contact the manufacturer
directly. Suggested List Price $695 Peter @ JacPac UV
604-780-4702
PristineBlue is also a product name, not a process. It is registered as an
algaecide with the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and certified to
ANSI/NSF Standard 60 as a drinking water additive. PristineBlue is completely
compatible with chlorine and therefore may be used in commercial and non
residential pools where it is necessary to maintain a residual of chlorine in
order to meet the requirements as a disinfectant.
It is a cupric ion based bacteriostat and algaecide with an extra compound
called ET-3000 to improve performance. From the information I have received on
this product I can only guess that the "proprietary molecule ET-3000"
is a form of sequestriant/chelate that binds or complexes the copper ion (or
cupric ion) to prevent it from precipitating out of the water to prevent
staining. This product appears to be a better chemically balanced form of an
Ionizer without the cost of such a system. The manufacturer does point out that
this system is a bacteria suppressant and is not a primary disinfectant. In
commercial settings or where multiple swimmers or users are present, it may be
advisable to use this system with a primary disinfectant like chlorine or
bromine to ensure that bacteria are killed as quickly as possible. It is also
suggested that this product works even better in conjunction with ozonation
systems. You should determine for yourself if there products are suitable for
your objectives.
The following is claimed by the manufacturer.
Over the course of a swimming season, PristineBlue will cost you up to 30%
less than other pool treatment systems. Plus, you won't have the added expense
of all the various chemical the other companies want you to buy. This water
treatment system is perhaps the most cost effective way to treat your pool
because every drop of PristineBlue you pour into your pool goes to work
controlling algae and suppressing bacteria. PristineBlue does not evaporate. Its
levels are reduced only as it works against algae and bacteria in your pool.
The PristineBlue water treatment system helps defend your pool against an
invasion of algae, bacteria, stains, scale, cloudiness and discolored water, but
is gentle on your family's eyes, hair, skin, swimwear and your expensive pool
and pool equipment. Pool water treated with PristineBlue feels softer and looks
inviting without a chemical taste or odor. For your protection, PristineBlue is
registered with the EPA and is certified for addition to drinking water
(ANSI/NSF Standard 60).
Another bonus for you and your children, who don't understand why they need to
wait after you have used other chemicals, is that you can swim immediately after
application with PristineBlue.
For More information contact 1-800-CLR-WATER.
Although Baquacil and BaquaSpa aren't true oxidizers they are a for of sanitizer
and some info on the product are as follows:
Unlike chlorine which acts as an oxidizer and sterilizer in the water,
polyhexamethylenebiqunaide (PHMB) based sanitizers destroy the bacteria cell by
locating and binding to bacteria cell surfaces. It then attacks and overcomes
the outer bacterial cell wall. Once this wall has been compromised, the
cytoplasmic membrane, the inner cell membrane, is destroyed. This destruction
allows the cell contents to disperse into their surroundings where they are
likely broken down into their elemental parts by a non-chlorine oxidizer or
shock (Baqua Shock), which is a hydrogen peroxide based compound. It should be
noted that this system is very incompatible with standard
systems including chlorine and bromine, and can be difficult to convert back to
the traditional system.
In addition, Baquacil or BaquaSpa is a mild coagulant which combines
bacterial cells as well as other small particles contributed by the environment,
bathers, etc... into particles large enough to be trapped by the filter. The
resulting deposit on the filter is a gray sticky film which can only be removed
with Baqua Clean.
Special care must be taken when cleaning filters used in a swimming pool or
spa using PHMB based sanitizers, because of the way PHMB works. The filter
element must be cleaned more thoroughly and more frequently than a chlorine or
bromine system. If extreme care is not taken to completely remove all residue
from the filter media a buildup will occur. This build up will significantly
shorten the life of the filter element. Also, if TSP or any TSP type cleaner is
used prior to stripping the film of cartridge filters, the cleaner and the gray
film will combine to form a gum-like substance. Once this occurs, the substance
cannot be removed from the media and the filter cartridge must be replaced. It
should be noted that once this product is employed as a sanitizer in your pool
or spa, many steps must be taken to revert back to a normal standard bromine or
chlorine chemical program, due to the filters. In most cases it is best just to
replace the filter media all together. If you are using a cartridge filter,
replace it at the time of conversion. If you are using a sand filter, replace
the sand and clean out the tank. If you are using DE filter clean and replace
the DE.
More info on this product will be made available in the near future as it
comes available. I apologize to whom it may concern the amount of negativity
with this product but the amount of information I have is limited and this is
all I have. I am quite sure there are many positives benefits associated with
this product, however I don't have the full extent of that information
available.
This product is not approved for use in Canada.
I will give more details at a later date but this is the just of it at this
point. Typically there are many forms of enzymes out there. They are not
considered a sanitizer at this point that I know of. Their primary use of these
products is to increase the speed at which body oils, contaminants like
suntan lotions and certain combined products biodegrade. Reducing the demand on
other sanitizers like chlorine or bromine. Enzymes are used in digestion of you
stomach, making beer, breaking down composts, cleaning oil spills, etc... They
are for the most part completely non toxic, natural and may be a nice addition
to many chemical programs.
That's it for now. Sorry.
Call for pricing.
There are two distinct sides to this one. Although relatively new in the pool
and spa industry magnet have been used for more than 60 years to prevent scale
formation in industrial boilers. Many pool and spa service technicians are
convinced that attaching magnets to the circulation line improves the
quality of the water. There are many claims to the abilities of magnetic
devices:
- Remove Scale.
- Stabilize pH.
- Control Staining
- Reduce Water Hardness and TDS
- Dissolve Scum Lines
- Inhibit Algae Growth
- Improve Water Clarity
- Enhance Sanitizers
- Curtail Corrosion
However it should be noted that not a single claim mentioned above has ever been
scientifically proven or disproved. The only problem is that no one has been
able to explain the reason in such a manner that will stand up to scientific
scrutiny. A study commissioned by the Water Quality Association showed that
magnetic devices do not change any physical properties of water. In the United
States, EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) regulations on non-chemical
devices are quite lax. Canadian authorities under the Pest Control Products Act
would never allow registration of such claims.
What is known is that when you pass water through a strong magnetic field,
scale formation is sometimes reduced- and sometimes not. It has been suggested
that a magnetic field affects the precipitation of salts, but this also has
never been proven to the satisfaction of the scientific community. One thing is
for certain- When you attach a magnet to a circulation pipe, you are not adding
any chemicals to the water that could cause problems. And if the cost is not to
great the worst thing that the magnet could be doing to the water is absolutely
nothing at all.
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